I had to bring this one out of the house so I did not eat it all on my own. I adore membrillo but I do not adore the cost of buying it in cheese shops. Another lovely aspect of the Northwest is the availability of produce that I couldn’t always get my hands on in New England. (Forgive me my disloyalty, Haymarket!) I saw these gorgeous quinces and got fired up to make some membrillo of my own. This process isn’t complicated, but it is a bit taxing. Do mind your hands and arms when stirring during the second stovetop time. There is a chance that you may be peppered with minor burns when the mixture bubbles. Have no fear though, it is so worth it! The wonderful part is that the quinces themselves help you to know when the cooking time is up. The mixture turns from a sort of pale pinkish/beige to striking rouge when it is getting close to the right temperature. It is one of those recipes in which simplicity leads to a bit of magic. A sort of odd, strangely textured fruit becomes the variable that takes cheese to another level altogether. Membrillo is fantastic with Manchego cheese, Marcona almonds, and a nice Rioja or Amontillado sherry.
Membrillo
4-6 medium quinces
¼ c. water
sugar
Peel, core, and chop quinces. Cook with water, covered, over medium heat until very tender. Puree fruit in until smooth and press through a fine mesh sieve. Measure puree and add equal amount of sugar, ¼ c. water, and the juice of one lemon or lime. Cook over medium/high heat, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula, about 25-30 minutes. Do not stop stirring! Mixture will bubble and begin to turn color. Continue cooking until paste is bubbling and beginning to move as an entity when stirred. (I know this is a strange instruction, but you will know when this happens. The paste begins to assert itself against the spatula a bit.) Cook about 2 minutes more, remove from heat, and pour into oiled loaf pans. Allow to set overnight. Slice and serve, or wrap well and refrigerate for up to 6 weeks.
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